Replacement LCD display with LED Backlight for Fusion $20

[Jesse]

Replacement LCD display with LED Backlight for the Alesis Fusion link

On the up side the replacement LCD display I bought for $20 does work, maybe not as bright as the original, but you can see it even without a backlight, so far over 6.5 hours straight and no problem

LCD display with 3.3volts (tapped from Fusions PSU) powering the 5 volt LED backlight.
The LCD display looks better and the LED light runs much cooler - cool to the touch, 3.3 volts to the 5 volt LED's is the way to go
The LCD display looks better than the picture I posted, an antiglare protective cover like used on a cell phone would help the picture to look better.

[dasfaker]

Hi Jesse

Mi Fusion LCD has stopped working. After opening the Fusion, I see there is a blow resistor much in the same way as in this pic



Other users that had problems with this issue had to replace both boards (9-79-0366 and 9-79-0365), but there is no stock for 9-79-0366 board on instrumentalparts.com.

Do you know if those boards are needed if I replace the LCD with the one of your link?

Thanks in advance and excuse my english.

[parametric]

Hi dasfaker,

I think I'm right in saying that those two small boards are to do with the miniature tubes that illuminate the original display - and if you convert to Jesse's led-lit display, they can be taken out.

I would try to replace the resistor - if you can identify it . . .   Sadly, both the Service Manuals of the Fusion AND the MPC5000 only show the presence of those boards, NOT the close-ups with the component details.

So IF you can identify the resistor and replace it - you might get lucky . . . .

Best Regards

parametric

[Jesse]

I have some spare inverter & dimmer PCB's I will check the resistors and post the results in the next 24 hours

[dasfaker]

Thanks both for your replies. I'll await your tests Jesse.

[Jesse]

Looking closer at the photo you provided it dose not look like a blown resistor, it looks more like a blown transistor?



There are 2 resistors on the inverter PCB, they are small probably 1/4 watt resistors



R1 brown black orange gold 10000 or 10k ohm 5% tolerance
R2 brown black orange gold 10000 or 10k ohm 5% tolerance



If the display is working you can replace the CFL backlight with LED back light or get the new LCD display that comes with the LED back light for around $20 and eliminate the Inverter PCB, but the dimmer PCB needs to remain in the Fusion.

[dasfaker]

Thanks Jesse.

The previous pic is from another post.

This pics are from the actual PCBs in my Fusion. I hope they can give you a better look at the issue.
I have no idea about electronic components, so you could be right. I see a brown thing that has exploded, and a semicircular black piece that is broken, both on the same PCB (inverter). Surely you can give me a better diagnostic.

I don't really know if the LCD works, it's just black. Is there a way I could know if it's still ok?

There's a better resolution image in this link:

[Jesse]

Components on the pic of your Inverter PCB

The black component is a transistor
utc d1616al link

The brown component appears to be a capacitor Not sure what the value is
Fi54J P
i00MEFi

If the display is good you would be better off replacing the CFL back light with an LED back light and ditch the Inverter PCB
link

[dasfaker]

Thanks, Jesse. I think I'll try to replace the light with the leds, it seems the easiest solution for now.

[pablofcid]

Hi, Jessy. I really love your contributions.
Regarding the module you used, the link is about a 'Green/yellow' module. But your picture seems more a White led one. Can you confirm/check the link? I am surprised about the Price (20eur) because the options I have found so far more tan doublé that.
Anyhow, here they are, at least they provide more options (seem compatible to the module suggested above, as they have the same physical dimensions, style of connector and internal controller based on T6963)

www.mouser.es/Optoelectronics/Displays/LCD-Displays/LCD-Graphic-Display-Modules-Accessories/_/N-6j73a?P=1yx65qmZ1yx65rgZ1z0ypn7Z1yzcik5&Keyword=144.0


www.crystalfontz.com/products/parametric.php?chars=&lines=&display_type=graphic&coldots=240&rowdots=128&overall_w_mm=144&overall_w_in=5.6693&overallWRestrict=&overall_h_mm=104&overall_h_in=4.0945&overallHRestrict=&overall_d_mm=&overall_d_in=&overallDRestrict=&interfaces%5B%5D=16&interfaces%5B%5D=32&interfaces%5B%5D=128&interfaces%5B%5D=2048&controllers%5B%5D=RAiO+RA6963&controllers%5B%5D=Toshiba+T6963&search=Search&break=1&price=

[pablofcid]

Sorry for the confusion. THe module used by Jessy and the link he provided is for a White led backlight module (it is in the datasheet downloaded from that link that a reference for a Green/yellow backlight does appear).

[pablofcid]

Jessy:
Haven't you thought of getting the 5V for the LED from the IDE drive supply? It should provide more tan enough power for the LED. Just add some cable an you will be able to get the full bright response from the display.

[Jesse]

Jan 9, 2015 12:29:40 GMT pablofcid said:

Jessy:
Haven't you thought of getting the 5V for the LED from the IDE drive supply? It should provide more tan enough power for the LED. Just add some cable an you will be able to get the full bright response from the display.

No I did not, but I would use a 3.3 volt source, it provides enough light and the LED's run cooler

[pablofcid]

If it runs cooler, it's cool. Sadly your supplier doesn't ship to Spain and alternatives I can find rise the price a lot. Otherwise I would get away with the 'intense' blue and welcomed the cool grey. I pretend to change the fan in next days, following your advice from other thread.

[parametric]

Jan 7, 2015 3:23:32 GMT Jesse said:

 the dimmer PCB does not need to remain in the Fusion.

Is it possible that the dimmer knob can control the led brightness?

That would be most useful (and therefore UNLIKELY to be true )

para