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Post by Jesse on Sept 9, 2014 3:59:32 GMT
Testing and hopefully repairing my non functional Fusion 8HD will resume when I receive my 64GB SATA 2 SSD drive and open up my working Fusion 8HD to; 1. Connect the top half of my non functional Fusion 8HD with the top half of my working Fusion 8HD to see if the top half of my non functional Fusion 8HD is in proper working order - I have my fingers crossed 2. Connect the Potential Replacement LCD display I bought to my working Fusion 8HD and see if it is indeed a viable replacement for the original LCD display 3. Attempt to add a 64GB SATA 2 SSD drive to my working Fusion 8HD by connecting it to the IDE HD cable using a IDE to SATA adapter 4. Test to see if a high speed CF card reader will work when connected to the IDE HD cable in my working Fusion 8HD using a IDE to CF card reader adapter Take Care ... Jesse
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Post by Jesse on Sept 17, 2014 19:44:37 GMT
I received my Kingspec 64GB SATA II SSD drive today, so I plan to start experimenting this weekend In addition to testing the devices below I will also test for Master & Slave drives using a 40 pin 80 wire cable on the Fusion's internal hard drive IDE 1 port IDE/PATA to SATA Adapter KingSpec 64GB SATA II SSD and Adapter IDE/PATA to CF Card Reader Adapter
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Post by billmelator on Sept 21, 2014 12:09:59 GMT
Thanks for writing about your adventure fixing this thing. I'm in a somewhat similar adventure. I bought a fusion8 on Ebay for $300 [my third. The ad said 'dark screen'. When asked, the seller said you could read it with a flashlight. This turned out not to be the case. Not dark--dead. I bought a new screen using your link, for $20. The multipin connection fit and worked great. But the 2pin back-light[?] wire didn't fit. When I spliced onto the old plug, nothing happened either. I confess, I didn't read [I've had a horrible time logging into this board, having to re-register several times and a lot of trouble with the kaptcha pictures. The audio kaptchas don't work at all] your info on voltage for the light, and reading it now, don't understand it. Anyway, I solved it by hooking in up to a 9 volt battery, which I mounted on the outside of the end piece, and disconnect when not in use. It works quite well, though it's not adjustable, and instead of being white on a blue background, the screen is black on a white background. It doesn't seem to need adjustment. A little goofy, but it works. However, either in the process of my trial and error process of figuring this thing out, either I blew out an output, shorting something, or it was already bad, and I didn't notice it til now. Suffice to say the left side's dead. Before opening it up again, any advise on how to proceed would be much appreciated. I have a Fusion 6 that is nonworking and will remain so. It was run over by our tour bus. I am hoping to find a loose wire, but fear that I shorted something, and may have to swap out the op-amp or even fix it. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks so much for helping us keep this wonderful ax alive. I've recently written some new patches that I will share soon when I can figure out how.
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Post by billmelator on Sept 21, 2014 12:14:55 GMT
I also put in a new 160gb drive, which worked well [thanks to info on this post], though only 120's recognized. I formatted it and upgraded the os, too.
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Post by Jesse on Sept 21, 2014 19:31:44 GMT
I also put in a new 160gb drive, which worked well [thanks to info on this post], though only 120's recognized. I formatted it and upgraded the os, too. Formatting a drive larger than 120GB on the fusion only yields 120 GB that is the Fusion's hardware limitation. The LED backlight supplied with the LCD display is 5 volts not 12 volt and not 9 volt so you need to tap into a 5 volt supply off the Fusion or change the LED's to 12 volt and use the 12 volt supply on the dimmer PCB, also with the LED backlight you do not need the Inverter PCB any more. I currently have the LCD display up an running on my Working Fusion 8HD for a little over 2 hours so far, with the display dimmer turned up all the way you don't even need the back light. The 5 volt LED backlight runs a little hot, I'll try 3.3 volts LCD display with backlight LCD display with out backlight Lovely news: I helped a friend to find a suitable display replacement. He has already got his hands dirty and he confirms that both Little PCBs can be removed when mounting the new LED based backlight LCD, and (drum roll, please...): the original contrast knob is still operative for the new display. It is not so strange, as in fact the contrast is only related to the LCD part of the display (the 20 pin connector) and not with the backlight. I suspected it would work once I saw the photo of the contrast knob, which lays isolated from the rest. The cable from the contrast pot goes directly to the relevant pins on the LCD connector for contrast control.
cheers!
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Post by Jesse on Sept 21, 2014 20:21:51 GMT
Unfortunately the IDE to SATA adapter did not work with the SATA II SSD nor did the IDE to CF card reader, they do work when connected to a computer, but not with the Alesis Fusion. Due to the lack of support for needed Firmware/OS programing we appear to be limited to IDE/PATA storage drives. If you want an SSD drive for your Fusion get a PATA/IDE SSD while they are available On the up side the replacement LCD display I bought does work, maybe not as bright as the original, but you can see it even without a backlight, so far over 6.5 hours straight and no problem LCD display with 3.3volts (tapped from Fusions PSU) powering the 5 volt LED backlight. The LCD display looks better and the LED light runs much cooler - cool to the touch, 3.3 volts to the 5 volt LED's is the way to go The LCD display looks better than the picture I posted, an antiglare protective cover like used on a cell phone would help the picture to look better.
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Post by billmelator on Sept 21, 2014 21:14:52 GMT
Yes! That's what mine looks like. I'm hesitant to mess with it, but where do you 'tap in'? I'll be opening it up soon, to investigate the nonworking channel
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Post by Jesse on Sept 21, 2014 21:56:28 GMT
Yes! That's what mine looks like. I'm hesitant to mess with it, but where do you 'tap in'? I'll be opening it up soon, to investigate the nonworking channel About the Fusion PSU, There are only four different voltages coming off this PSU and they are marked right on top of the PSU PCB (Power Suppy Unit Printed Circuit Board Alesis Fusion & MPC5000 SPSHA33R4-058N PSU Voltage Outputs Call Akai Parts at 401-658-3131 ext 1407 for current availabilty
Any Modifications you may make are at Your Own Risk
The orange wires from the PSU are 3.3 volt, use voltmeter to verify your source voltage, after you locate 3.3 volt source turn power off to the Fusion and make your connection, you will need to solder a wire to the orange wire on the PSU or at some other location, you do this at your own risk.
Attachments:
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Post by billmelator on Sept 21, 2014 22:22:38 GMT
Thanks so much! I haven't opened it yet, but when I do, and after I fix the output problem I will try this. At my own risk of course. Was enjoying the McGyver approach, though.
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Post by billmelator on Sept 22, 2014 12:34:24 GMT
I started the output repair on my 8hd last night [Only getting output out of the left side]. After much work, I swapped out the output boards. No difference. The right side's still dead.
Next, I took out the main [largest]board to swap with the board out of my destroyed 6hd. They looked identical, but aren't quite. The 2 keyboard input sockets are different, more pins for the 8hd. While it looks possible to trade sockets [the board itself's the same just soldered on differently] It looks like the soldering is above my skills, and I am risking ruining 2 boards. Also without test equipment or much real knowledge of electronics, I can see nothing wrong with either one.
Does anyone know where to get a schematic for these keyboards? Or any other electronic info? I may be in over my head, but the alternative seems to be a mono keyboard, which, since most of the patches are written in stereo, especially the organs, is not pleasant. BTW, I'm quite impressed with the level of workmanship on the inside of these things. Schematic or repair manual anyone?
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Post by Jesse on Sept 22, 2014 14:48:33 GMT
Have you checked the volume POT to see if you have input and output from both channels?
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Post by billmelator on Sept 22, 2014 15:16:22 GMT
Sounds like a good idea. I guess I'll have to put it back together to test that. The pot IS a little crackly.
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Post by billmelator on Sept 22, 2014 15:35:58 GMT
Any idea where there's a schematic, before I do?
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Post by billmelator on Sept 22, 2014 20:41:18 GMT
Thanks very much, Jesse. Apparently I AM over my head. I was about to check the volume knob. I put the original 8hd] main board back in. Now when I turn it on I get Error Voice engine 2 has failed+ Failed reset handshake #`1 [error code [0x02071002]
Checked all connections 3x. All screws not back in yet, though can't imagine why that should matter. Did a hard reset, [record+ play+ turn it on] no change. Any ideas? Help!
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Post by billmelator on Sept 22, 2014 23:20:16 GMT
OK I've solved that. One cable had become disconnected where I couldn't see it. I got it working again, but still no right output. Tried dicking with the volume pot w no luck. Something I think is unrelated, but perhaps not: When I turn the 8hd on, I get "Cannot find audio directory." After hitting OK, it goes away, and then works
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