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Post by Jesse on Sept 22, 2014 18:35:23 GMT
Replacement LCD display with LED Backlight for the Alesis Fusion linkOn the up side the replacement LCD display I bought for $20 does work, maybe not as bright as the original, but you can see it even without a backlight, so far over 6.5 hours straight and no problem LCD display with 3.3volts (tapped from Fusions PSU) powering the 5 volt LED backlight. The LCD display looks better and the LED light runs much cooler - cool to the touch, 3.3 volts to the 5 volt LED's is the way to go The LCD display looks better than the picture I posted, an antiglare protective cover like used on a cell phone would help the picture to look better.
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Post by dasfaker on Jan 2, 2015 19:31:52 GMT
Hi Jesse Mi Fusion LCD has stopped working. After opening the Fusion, I see there is a blow resistor much in the same way as in this pic Other users that had problems with this issue had to replace both boards (9-79-0366 and 9-79-0365), but there is no stock for 9-79-0366 board on instrumentalparts.com. Do you know if those boards are needed if I replace the LCD with the one of your link? Thanks in advance and excuse my english.
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Post by parametric on Jan 5, 2015 1:34:46 GMT
Hi dasfaker,
I think I'm right in saying that those two small boards are to do with the miniature tubes that illuminate the original display - and if you convert to Jesse's led-lit display, they can be taken out.
I would try to replace the resistor - if you can identify it . . . Sadly, both the Service Manuals of the Fusion AND the MPC5000 only show the presence of those boards, NOT the close-ups with the component details.
So IF you can identify the resistor and replace it - you might get lucky . . . .
Best Regards
parametric
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Post by Jesse on Jan 6, 2015 6:53:48 GMT
I have some spare inverter & dimmer PCB's I will check the resistors and post the results in the next 24 hours
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Post by dasfaker on Jan 6, 2015 8:55:05 GMT
Thanks both for your replies. I'll await your tests Jesse.
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Post by Jesse on Jan 7, 2015 3:23:32 GMT
Looking closer at the photo you provided it dose not look like a blown resistor, it looks more like a blown transistor? There are 2 resistors on the inverter PCB, they are small probably 1/4 watt resistors R1 brown black orange gold 10000 or 10k ohm 5% tolerance R2 brown black orange gold 10000 or 10k ohm 5% tolerance If the display is working you can replace the CFL backlight with LED back light or get the new LCD display that comes with the LED back light for around $20 and eliminate the Inverter PCB, but the dimmer PCB needs to remain in the Fusion.
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Post by dasfaker on Jan 7, 2015 11:07:22 GMT
Thanks Jesse. The previous pic is from another post. This pics are from the actual PCBs in my Fusion. I hope they can give you a better look at the issue. I have no idea about electronic components, so you could be right. I see a brown thing that has exploded, and a semicircular black piece that is broken, both on the same PCB (inverter). Surely you can give me a better diagnostic. I don't really know if the LCD works, it's just black. Is there a way I could know if it's still ok? There's a better resolution image in this link:
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Post by Jesse on Jan 8, 2015 6:09:08 GMT
Components on the pic of your Inverter PCB The black component is a transistor utc d1616al linkThe brown component appears to be a capacitor Not sure what the value is Fi54J P i00MEFi If the display is good you would be better off replacing the CFL back light with an LED back light and ditch the Inverter PCB link
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Post by dasfaker on Jan 8, 2015 15:12:42 GMT
Thanks, Jesse. I think I'll try to replace the light with the leds, it seems the easiest solution for now.
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Post by pablofcid on Jan 9, 2015 12:07:28 GMT
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Post by pablofcid on Jan 9, 2015 12:21:35 GMT
Sorry for the confusion. THe module used by Jessy and the link he provided is for a White led backlight module (it is in the datasheet downloaded from that link that a reference for a Green/yellow backlight does appear).
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Post by pablofcid on Jan 9, 2015 12:29:40 GMT
Jessy: Haven't you thought of getting the 5V for the LED from the IDE drive supply? It should provide more tan enough power for the LED. Just add some cable an you will be able to get the full bright response from the display.
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Post by Jesse on Jan 9, 2015 20:01:46 GMT
Jessy: Haven't you thought of getting the 5V for the LED from the IDE drive supply? It should provide more tan enough power for the LED. Just add some cable an you will be able to get the full bright response from the display. No I did not, but I would use a 3.3 volt source, it provides enough light and the LED's run cooler
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Post by pablofcid on Jan 10, 2015 14:28:13 GMT
If it runs cooler, it's cool. Sadly your supplier doesn't ship to Spain and alternatives I can find rise the price a lot. Otherwise I would get away with the 'intense' blue and welcomed the cool grey. I pretend to change the fan in next days, following your advice from other thread.
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Post by parametric on Jan 10, 2015 15:26:47 GMT
the dimmer PCB does not need to remain in the Fusion. Is it possible that the dimmer knob can control the led brightness? That would be most useful (and therefore UNLIKELY to be true ) para
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