|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 18, 2011 0:13:04 GMT
Just bought a mint Fusion 6HD but I believe it has been handled roughly in transit. For the first few hours of use the backlight kept going on and off randomly as I played suggesting a loose contact. I opened it up and reseated all the connectors and it was fine...for a while then it completely went. Pressing on the case front would make it come on again so I again suspected a loose contact.
I opened it again and as I (carefully ) dismantled the parts, the white wires connecting to the flourescent tube came out of the rubber L shaped connectors.
Now, is this some sign of permanent damage or are they supposed to just slot in and connect somehow? seems a little strange but I cannot see how they could have been soldered to the end of the tube inside the rubber connectors.
Any help here very much appreciated or I have a large paperweight for a keyboard/
|
|
|
|
Post by Shreddie on Aug 18, 2011 0:43:59 GMT
It depends... Some have the wires soldered onto the tube then rubber moulded around them and others are just a kind of plug that can sometimes be a bugger to fit... I don't know which the Fusion has.
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 18, 2011 7:56:01 GMT
Thanks Shreddie. The rubber mouldings look like they were put on after i.e. they don't have that moulded on look. However, the end of the wire looks like a tiny (and i do mean tiny) solder contact may have snapped off but i have no idea how they could have got the mouldings on after soldering. Either way i am stuffed. All i can do, unless there is a spare part available, is glue the wires ino the mouldings then hope they make contact with the end of the flourescent tube. Gutted really as Fusions in this sort of condition are getting rare.
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 18, 2011 9:21:07 GMT
Tried glueing the leads into the connectors...no good. Only choice i have now is to try and solder them back together but i fear i may blow the flourescent as the connectors are right on the glass itself. Does anyone know if a bulb can be bought to replace it? Seems ridiculous that i cannot use the board just because a tiny bulb needs replacing. I will try a third party if it gets it working again. Any ideas more than welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 18, 2011 18:21:38 GMT
I think i have found a way of fixing this. The wire harness could be soldered back onto a ccfl flourescent backlight, there are plenty out there. However, i would need to know what voltage, watt or power details the light runs on so i can get a suitable replacement. It looks a simple enough job if i have a full electrode sticking out. On the Fusion, there is less than a millimetre of electrode available to solder to. The bulb itself may still work but i suspect the heat from the soldering iron might finish it off when that close to it.
Does anyone have the service manual and can get those details for me please?
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 19, 2011 9:48:08 GMT
I found an 80mm CCFL tue on ebay which matches that of the Alesis. Seller says it should work as long it is the same size. Is there any way of checking the inverter board is not at fault? Could i attach an LED light to the wires from the inverter to ensure it is still sending out power?
|
|
|
|
Post by Shreddie on Aug 19, 2011 15:14:31 GMT
there any way of checking the inverter board is not at fault? Could i attach an LED light to the wires from the inverter to ensure it is still sending out power? Only if you want to blow the LED and perhaps the inverter. Inverters are usually a fairly high frequency (usually 200Hz to 3,000Hz) AC source running at 110V or higher. It should be possible to check it with a multimeter but without knowing the exact specs of the inverter and without having it under load, it's impossible to check properly. I very much doubt the inverter is at fault here though, it seems more like it's the connection that's caused the problem, it shouldn't just drop off like that. Probably the best way of checking the inverter is simply to replace the backlight and see if it works properly. |
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 19, 2011 17:56:22 GMT
Backlight is completely gone. I also saw what looked like a blown resistor on one of the boards under a folded down capacitor (the dimmer one not the inverter)....so I have ordered the cathode tube from ebay and two new boards from instrumentparts.com...if these don't work...well, looks like a big metal paperweight from now on.
|
|
|
|
Post by Shreddie on Aug 19, 2011 23:46:16 GMT
Oooh dear. I hope you sort it dude.
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 20, 2011 6:48:59 GMT
Fingers crossed, parts will sort it out. After all, the LCD is fine so i am replacing everything else. If anyone else has this problem google for an 80mm ccfl tube with 2mm diameter. Bulb and boards are costing just over £50 and that is due to shipping charges.
Judt ne thing. I took both boards out and the fusion still works fine. I know one board is the inverter but what does the other do?
|
|
|
|
Post by Jesse on Aug 20, 2011 23:29:17 GMT
Could be
9-79-0365 PCB, CCFL Inverter
9-79-0366 PCB, CCFL Dimmer
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 20, 2011 23:32:12 GMT
Those are the two parts i have ordered, along with a ccfl from ebay. Still not sure what the dimmer board does though.
|
|
|
|
Post by Jesse on Aug 21, 2011 20:04:07 GMT
Those are the two parts i have ordered, along with a ccfl from ebay. Still not sure what the dimmer board does though. I believe it is for use with the display dimmer knob top right of the display. |
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 21, 2011 22:38:30 GMT
Nope, with both boards out i can still adjust the LCD contrast. Further reading slightly confuses matters. Apparently a digital dimmer uses PMW to slow down the frequency of a CCFL thereby reducing its brightness. I guess it is to enable the adjustment of the LCD in diagnostic mode as there are no other options for adjusting screen brightness. Will need to wait a few weeks for the parts to see if i am right. Unless, of course, someome can identify the small resistor under the bent over transistor on the dimmer board. That way i can replace the resistor and have a spare set of boards.
|
|
|
|
Post by splinters on Aug 23, 2011 21:49:22 GMT
Absolutely gutted. Just received a refund from instrumentparts for the two inverter boards. Apparently they no longer have them in stock. I now have a very expensive paperweight unless I use it in bright daylight. I replaced the cathode tube today and was just waiting for the parts.
My only hope now is to replace the blown resistor and hope that sort it but I have no idea what the resistor is as it has burnt.
Can anyone help me identify it please? It is the one on the dimmer board under the folded over transistor marked R10.
Please, please, please can anyone tell me what it is or the colour bands on it so I can try and fix it?
Did I say please enough...
|
|
